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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.